St Helena – Feb 2009
St Helena is a very isolated British island, served only by the last remaining Royal Mail ship still in existence – the RMS St Helena. It is famous for many things, having been discovered and kept secret by the Portuguese for most of the 16th century. Other European countries then used it as a place for replenishing supplies, and a community was established at Jamestown, the capital. The interior was changed forever by the introduction of goats and other animals, and much of the coastal cliffs are now barren. The interior remains lush and enjoys frequent rain, and the SE trade winds coming up from well south keep the temperatures mostly pleasant.
The island was used as a prison for thousands over the centuries including, most famously, Napoleon, who was kept here for seven years before his death.
The population of 4,500 is of a very well mixed descent, as slaves from many nations were brought in over the centuries, along with a similar number of Europeans. The result is a “race” unlike any other but they are the friendliest people and the island is very safe with an extremely low crime rate. The population however is suffering from an exodus of young people of working age, who leave for Ascension, the Falklands or the UK where they can earn considerably better wages. Jamestown is full of character and has an old time atmosphere. Nestled in the only habitable valley and crammed lengthways down it, the steep roads are reminiscent of a Cornish village, or old Guernsey. Fortifications abound too, and the entry to the town from the harbour front is through an arched castle gate.A public swimming pool and playground are right outside the castle gate, perfect for the children on several visits!
Prices in St Helena are very reasonable except for food, which is imported from the UK and South Africa and costs more for that. However being a remote island many packaged, imported food items are soon out of date, and prices are slashed. I bought several boxes of perfect, out of date Frosted Shreddies. This cereal seems completely unknown outside of Britain and its territories, the last place we found Shreddies being Gibraltar, over three years ago!
Television was only introduced in 1995, and there is no mobile phone network.
We took an island tour and enjoyed the pretty island and spectacular views, learning a great deal about the island from our helpful driver, as well as visiting the house where Napoleon lived for most of his sentence.
It was hard to leave this place as it is remote and a treasure. However this may begin to change if ever an airport is built, a prospect about which the islanders have mixed views.
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