Spinalonga » 2008/2009 – South Africa

Simons Town, South Africa – Jan 2009

Elaine — Sat, 31 Jan 2009 02:14:01 +0000

We had a possible big window of six days for leaving Port St Francis, but forecasts were conflicting, so again we had plan A, B and C with possible further emergency options. There were two harbours, one of which needs calm weather to enter, and a number of headlands to provide shelter from a SW wind. So off we went, motoring west until the E wind picked up. We picked our way along the coast, and after the protective headlands ran out, we decided we might have enough weather window still to get all the way to Simonstown, our next definite stop (Elaine’s parents were coming to visit us there).We rounded Cape Agulhas, the most southerly point of Africa, on New Year’s Day. The wind was still with us but would be dying out and then turning. Still we managed to sail quite some way further before having to motor across the large False Bay to Simonstown. From Cape Agulhas onwards we saw a great many seals in the sea, with flippers or heads sticking up.

Simonstown Yacht Club Marina had one space only, which was fine although it was the very furthest space, and the pontoon was tipping over. However we got the kids off, and in the next few days discovered Simonstown, and some of the surroundings with the help of some local liveaboards who kindly drove us.

The town is small and is a distant suburb of Cape Town. It is a lot like an English village and seems rather isolated from black South Africa. There are all colours but the feeling is generally very safe. Simonstown has many essentials including a helpful pharmacy, several one-stop Indian shops, restaurants, a craft market in the picturesque seafront square, and various tourist shops. However it has no supermarket or any big name shops. To reach more shops you need either the train, or far better a car to reach the various excellent malls and medical centres etc.

Elaine’s parents arrived a week after we did, and stayed close to the Marina. By this time we had secured a closer spot for our boat. It was the first time they had seen George, and Lisa was now old enough to appreciate Grandma and Grandpa too. Daniel of course was ecstatic. We had a lovely time together, mixing simple company and some more touristy visits to Cape Town during their stay.

At the same time the children all really enjoyed their time at Simonstown Yacht Club, which is frequented by many boating kids and has a play area and swimming steps to the clear sea. We really recommend this club for anybody but especially for families. The only thing lacking was washing machines, although the laundry at 10 minutes walk did a good job at reasonable prices.

In our final week after Elaine’s parents left, Daniel was able to attend school with some of his friends, which he really enjoyed.

Dan has written some comic books and sold copies to many friends at the Yacht Club, for pocket money.

Port St Francis, South Africa – Dec 2008

Elaine — Tue, 30 Dec 2008 02:04:27 +0000

We left East London on Boxing Day for Port Elizabeth or Port St Francis, possibly even Knysna lagoon, as there was a possible three day window. But we got towards Port St Francis and realised we might be too late for Knysna and a really big SW was due, so we contacted Port St Francis on the radio and asked for permission to enter. This is a small, private port used for fishing and local boats, which supposedly welcomes visitors.

In heaping seas followed by a strong ENE wind we approached a wall with no apparent entrance, which showed itself at the last minute. The entry involved turning left 90 degrees around a buoy and entering a narrow channel perhaps a boatlength wide and only 3m deep (we draw 2m), from strong surf heading straight for the wall. We are very glad our engine didn’t break down here as there would have been no way out. Following our successful entry we found a port in two parts, the fishing section crammed full of fishing boats with a tiny turning space in the middle, and a leisure craft section. We were surprised to be waved into the fishing section by the wall. But we didn’t make the arrival and the force 7 wind drove us against a fishing boat with minor damage. There was no way off until the wind changed so we tied there. And what a fuss the marina man put up! He threatened to tow us forcibly back to the wall (which would have broken our self-steering gear and more) and then threatened to have us towed out of the harbour! – although which boat would have volunteered to tow us out through a narrow channel into dangerous breaking waves we couldn’t imagine! His theory was that the docks were old and three fishing boats rafted was a maximum load for safety. He eventually stopped ranting and disappeared for the night.We later learned from other sources that the fishing boats weigh 75 tons each – we weigh 14 – and that they often raft 4 abreast in that spot. The reason the harbour was so full was that many fishing boat crews were on strike for a different pay structure.

So we stayed the night, and moved the boat to the wall the following day when the wind was changing to the SW, with the assistance of ropes and some extra people. That day was pleasant enough. But on the Monday we were woken early saying we had to move again as the fishing boats anchored out and hiding from the SW wind all wanted to come in and unload their catches and fuel up on our wall! We managed to delay until the harbourmaster arrived at 8:30, when he apologised for the actions of the man who had greeted us on our arrival, but basically said if we stayed we would be continually forced to move, which we can’t do in a tiny space in strong winds. The brief stay wasn’t cheap either. So in a SW gale we decided to leave to anchor in the bay, now sheltered from the swell. We made it out, again thanks to the engine, and anchored upwind of the fishing boats in up to 44 kts of wind. The chain was making some funny noises but all held; the following day the wind abated and we left for new and more pleasant pastures.

East London, South Africa – Dec 2008

Elaine — Fri, 26 Dec 2008 01:55:55 +0000

Late the next day with a fair wind we sailed on to East London. Here the port is small, and the usual landing was crowded. However on the W side of the river the Yacht Club had just installed a pontoon, and we arranged to go alongside there instead. We were very happy there, although the club which was high above the rocks and water with scant barriers was a little scary with 1 and 2 year old toddlers. The new managers are helpful and friendly, and we enjoyed cooking Christmas dinner at the club for them and another boat family we made friends with. East London Zoo was fun for the kids with a large playground and miniature railway, and we explored shops at a couple of malls.

Mazeppa Bay, South Africa – Dec 2008

Elaine — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 01:51:53 +0000

We left for East London with a supposed 48 hour window but took a night’s break at Mazeppa Bay when an unexpected SW wind was warned after only 20 hours. The bay was comfortable enough against a 20kt SW wind.

Durban, South Africa – Dec 2008

Elaine — Tue, 16 Dec 2008 01:47:13 +0000

We took advice on how to handle the weather for our trips around the coast, and chose to leave Richards Bay in a 48 hour window of NE winds for Durban or East London. We were not confident of making East London within the time and stopped at Durban, a scary harbour to enter at night as it is huge and deceiving, and near the marina there are poorly marked shallows which we nearly ran straight onto. Having recovered we picked our way into the International Jetty with the help of friends on the radio.

Durban was fun, although we had been told it was not a very safe place. We enjoyed the Point Yacht Club with its pool, bar, and restaurant (Daniel won us a free meal there). We bought groceries at the supermarket just in town, and I went Christmas shopping for bargains a couple of times, which was fun but busy! Â

Richards Bay, South Africa – Nov/Dec 2008

Elaine — Wed, 03 Dec 2008 22:47:07 +0000

We spent three enjoyable weeks in Richards Bay. The first week was in the municipal marina (1 month free), the second two weeks we spent at Zululand Yacht Club, against the wall which is free for two weeks. This club is brilliant for children, having a large grassy area, a swimming pool and a playground. The marina receives many travelling yachts and has some local liveaboards so is a very friendly place. Security guards ensure that it is relaxed for all the family.George at 14 months was a liability near water, and tried to climb into it at any opportunity, even when the quay was 8ft up. However we got over this at Richards Bay where we visited two swimming pools and let George fall in to see what it was like. He learned fast that he didn’t want to fall in again and was very sensible from then on. Lisa and George enjoyed lots of supervised swimming though, with their rubber rings.

The drawback of Richards Bay is that although the town is large, it is sprawling and some way from the marinas. Consequently taxis or lifts are needed to do any shopping. We were lucky that some local friends took us out, and we managed to hire a car for a couple of days and go on safari, which the whole family enjoyed very much. We saw elephants, giraffes, wildebeest, white rhinoceros, kudu, zebra etc etc, all up close but in the “wild”.